Travel-time!

The past two weeks I had great company from Germany, precisely Berlin. My good friend Thomas came, I picked him in Accra (after two bussed broke down from Wa to Accra) and we had the best time ever, enjoying Ghana as much as possible.  This is the tour we did:

Start in Accra ( in the garden of Agoo Hostel, great place!)

Keeping the stay in Accra short we went to Volta Region after just one night in the capital. Two volunteers from Germany are near Hohoe and we stayed with them for two nights. The 5 hour drive there was crazy because we not only travelled in a trotro packed with 2000 plastic sandals but also with the most crazy driver I have ever met in Ghana. Nobody in the tro spoke as I guess that they were praying in silence, begging to survive this trip.
Hohoe welcomed us with "lights off" which is the local way to say that the electricity is out. We had a romantic candle light dinner with the other two volunteers Paul and Lennart.
The next day we went to see the Wli waterfalls. We were lucky because we were pretty much the only people there and had the chance to swim and let the water slam down on our bodies. Next two the waterfalls there was a colony of bats living. At some point they all started flying at once and the sky turned black.

Lennart & Paul 

Wli waterfalls

bats at the waterfalls

After the waterfalls we went to taste some of the locally made palm wine. Yammieee!

The next day, March 6th, was Ghanaian Independence day. After a speech by the local chief we watched the school children of the village march, enjoyed some of the snacks sold and chilled for the rest of the day.

local chief

a girl selling bananas and peanuts at the festivities

school children march to celebrate the day

some of the school children

In the evening time we went to a rap competition and hopped on the 2 a.m. bus to Kumasi. Guess what! 4 hours later the bus broke down in a village and we were stranded for another four hours waiting for the bus to be repaired.

unexpected bus stop at 6 in the morning

finding some rest in the next village until the bus got fixed

When we got to Kumasi we only needed 3 hours to find our hotel =). We stayed at the colonial style Hotel de Kingsway, which however offered all we needed. The next day we visited the Kumasi Central market, which is supposed to be the biggest of West Africa. But well, it was not all that exciting. Afterwards we entered the Kumasi Fort where we had a small guided tour and looked at 300 guns and 200 pictures of former generals and soldiers. Not all that exciting either. But Kumasi itself has a great flair and you just feel comfortable. So comfortable that I completely forgot to take pictures!

After just one night we took a night mini bus to Tamale. It must have been the sweatiest place with the smallest seats ever. On every side my neighbours were so close that our bodies were producing an enormous heat. And guess what! We had to change the tire in the middle of the night. But we got to Tamale, found the next bus to Bolgatanga quickly and took a Taxi (that we shared with 6 people plus driver) to Sirigu and arrived at our beautiful lodge.

The next day we went to Paga where we took a tour through Pikworo Slave camp. Then we visited the crocodile pond. I still can't believe that I paid for a chicken to be thrown into the crocodile's mouth. So there was a pond with crocs inside. As soon as we approached with a screaming chicken they started coming. The oldest and fattest one (too many chickens?) came and laid quietly. The chicken was thrown into the mouth directly. I think it had a fast death but for no reason anyway. SORRY dear chicken!

alive chicken

dead chicken, happy tourist!

fat croc!

From here on we had fantastic travel company from the UK. Navi accompanied us for three days and we enjoyed her British humor a lot. The three of us made our way from Sirigu to Mole National Park. On the way we met a group of 7 Germany going there as well. Now I felt like a real tourist. We spent the whole day travelling. Of course one of the trotros broke down and we delayed. In the end we arrived at Mole late at night, ate and slept.

In the morning we went on a walking tour with Calma, a funny Ghanaian guide. At 7 am we walked with a group of 6 or so and were lucky enough to meet a big group of elephants. Warthogs were crossing and we also saw different types of antelopes (kobs, bush bucks, water bucks).

When we came back I chatted with one of the workers behind the dorm rooms and while we were sitting there all quietly a group of baboons came and chewed some of the dawadawa. As they threw some of the delicious seeds to the ground a warthog and a bush buck mommy and her baby came really close to us, not noticing we were there.

Later some green monkeys decided to try some of the dawadawa as well. The same evening we went on a jeep safari, which was rather unexciting but worth the feeling of cruising through the park on top of a jeep.

The next day we went on our next mission: Hippos! We were stranded in Larabanga (the village that forms the entrance to Mole National Park) for a bit because all the trotros passing were full. Finally, a full one was nice enough to squeeze us inside. Before getting to our destination, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary, we ended up having to walk 2 hours because the Taxi drivers wanted to rip us off. In the end a big truck picked us up and allowed us to sit on the loading space. From the Wechiau visitor's center we were picked by a Motorking and went another hour until we arrived at hour tree platform where we spent the night. This was amazing. We woke up to the loud chirping of birds, insects and just very intense sounds. And then: Hippos. We went on a small canoe and found a group of sleeping hippos very soon. Unfortunately, we had to stay far away as we didn't want to give them reason to worry.

From Wechiau our next and final destination was Wa. This was the most Ghanaian experience ever. Wechiau had market day and somebody bought 20 goats and 3 sheep that somehow had to get to Wa with us. So 5 were seated under us and enjoyed to wet Thomas' legs. While the rest had to go on the roof. Unfortunately the road was bumpy and in total three fell off the roof. However, they had a rope around their neck and dangled until the trotro stopped. They actually survived this torture.

a goat between my feet in the trotro

In Wa we noticed how exhausted we were and relaxed for the weekend. Thomas had the chance to go to church and went back to Accra/Berlin on Sunday. Those two weeks were just the best intense travelling you can wish for.

King of my Caste

Not much has happened lately. BUT I found my own room. I am now a bit more part of Ghana culture as I am living in a compound house. This means that there is a C shaped house with some 6 doors next to each other and behind every door another person is owner of his/her 10m². Most of the people have a bed, fridge, TV, cooking utelsils etc arranged there and even share the room with husband/wife/children. Me, I am proud owner of a fan and a gas cooker and I am happy as can be with a simple life like that. That is a new project in my life.

BEFORE

AFTER

The bathroom is shared and is pretty much a whole in the cement. Not only do I share it with the other people but also with 100 big ass cockroaches. I am telling you...try not to miss the whole, squatting, while those beasts are staring at you and some of them running around all panicky, is a big task to accomplish. 
Now, I also have to fetch my own water two or three times a week. As I am unable to carry 25 liters on my head without spilling a drop (special super hero skill of the local women) I got a 25 liter canister, which I fill at the borehole (which luckily is an automatic pump) like everybody else and carry it back on my bicycle. The first time I dropped the damn thing, of course, and after all the people had a good laugh, they showed me how to tie it to the bike. Another skill added! Check and thanks!

Fetching Water

Washing cloths

So far my neighbours are great. They are my age and a mix of students and job starters. I like my new life!

NEW YEAR!!!

The time around Christmas and New Year were full of relaxation and good vibes!

I spent the Christmas days in Wa with Evelyn, Alex and Alice and 30 degrees with some wind and dust. Since Wa has a high Muslim population and many people that don't have extra pennies to spent, there was no Christmas decoration and not really a sense of Christmas in the air. 
However, I was thankful that we had a small (plastic) tree in our house and Christmas music was playing. This way I did have my moments.
The 24th is not really a celebrated day around here and I even went to work. In the evening we went to midnight service at Cathedral, afterwards we went home and drank some incredibly sweet red wine, exchanged presents (we did Secret Santa) and went to sleep. It was really great to only buy one gift and receive something small in exchange. Christmas for the first time was not about shopping and big and expensive gifts.
The 25th and 26th were the days of the main celebration where I would go around town and visit people. Many prepared drinks and food at home to be able to receive visitors at any time of the day. So I went, sat, talked, drank....

Sitting with wine after church

In the evening of the 27th I got on the bus to Accra. The next morning I met the other 5 volunteers that came with the same German organization "Eine Welt Netz NRW" to Ghana. This was the first time in 4 months since I left the plane that I got to see them again. The six of us had the whole next week to spent with each other. 
We got on a tro-tro direction BEACH!
We had a great week in Cape 3 Points, the most beautiful place I have seen in Ghana, so far. 
We stayed at Escape 3 Points, an Eco-lodge, that was like an Oasis. It is beach front, all is made of bamboo and wood, there is a beach bar, a clean beach, no plastic bags in the water. And if they hadn't stolen a camera from one of our group members it would have been perfect. Well, I have to admit that it was a "white people's bubble", away from the real Ghana. To get in touch with the real world we walked to the fishing village next to us and met some wonderful people who proudly showed us around and let us feel the Ghanaian hospitality. 
One of the best moments was when we met young Lydia. She asked us if we could help her carry her plantains to her village. We agreed and ended up walking an hour through thick vegetation where nobody would have expected to find a village. In the end we came to a fishing village where incredible excitement broke loose the moment we entered. 20 children were running and shouting in joy around us, everybody greeted us and welcomed us, we were shown around and because it was getting dark they even escorted us halfway back to make sure that we get home safely. This is one of those Ghana moments that stick!

in the tro-tro

our dorm (Jorinde and Babette)

the restaurant at escape 3 points lodge (and Paul)

Escape 3 points lodge

escape three points lodge

New Year's Eve was also of a special kind. We were asked to bring white cloths and everybody did. Dressed in white we were served wine and enjoyed an amazing 4 course dinner. Afterwards there was a band playing at the beach bar and we got to listen to surf style jack johnson music until midnight. At midnight there was even a small firework on the beach. 

Lennart and beautiful Jacob the Angel on New Year's

With a bit of a headache we went the next day to see the real Cape of Cape Three Points. The view was a real New Year's present.

Lighthouse at the Cape

At Cape Three Points

At Cape Three Points

At Cape Three Points

In the area we also visited the Trinity Yard School which is a school for some 15 Ghanaian students, run by US American volunteers, where math and English skills are improved and they learn the traditional Kente Weaving and Batik. Those must be the luckiest students of all Ghana. The school is ocean front, build out of wood, has a beautiful library and is a perfect place to find your peace of mind. 

Kente weaving at Trinity Yards School

A peace of Kente cloth

Library at Trinity Yards School

View from the library

View from the terrace at the library

I had to leave a day early because I had to take care of immigration stuff in Accra. And wooop wooop, I am finally a legal resident of Ghana for one year.
Instead of going back to Wa I decided to meet a friend at Kokrobite Beach for another two nights. This was the total contrast. We stayed at Big Milleys Backyard and I got to experience real Rastafarian culture. Cabooooom. Reggae music everywhere, people of all ages with big ass dread locks (I don't know if the kids or the elderly with dreads fascinated me more). People smoking, dancing, enjoying everywhere. This blended with the local fishermen who had a totally different lifestyle. But there was this deep respect from all sides that made everybody just live together in peace without any reason for complains. 
This is a lesson I have learnt in Wa and again around here. People respect each other, no matter who you pray to. Ghana people have a kind of peace of mind that I have not experienced in Germany. 
Unfortunately I didn't take pictures as it was safer to keep my valuables locked for several reasons =) Please do google Kokrobite and Big Millys to get an impression. 

Of Weddings and Funerals

Both are major cultural celebrations in Ghana and I have been lucky to get the possibility to attend both.

Last weekend I went to my first Ghanaian wedding. Or it was rather the blessing at church that we were invited to. Blessings take place on Saturdays. This seems to be the rule. The big cathedral was full of people. Everything had to follow an order. After the priest gave an introduction and read from the bible, the crowd was singing and dancing and screaming to give their blessings and best wishes to the couple. Afterwards the priest gave a speech about marriage, more singing and dancing and three hours later the crowd moved to another location where we were provided with drinks and food. At 6 o’clock in the evening we went home and the celebration was over. The next day was Sunday and regular church day. The newlyweds were now introduced to the whole parish and are officially married.

FUNERAL: 24 hours of goosebumps

Let me tell you about my 12 hours of goosebumps! This is a story I always wanted to share but just never found the time to do so. 

A couple of weeks back Evelyn and I were invited by a friend to the funeral of his father -  to one of the biggest funerals of the year. It was announced on the radio and even television. Sir Patrick Dery an important figure for the Upper West, died a few months ago and was now to be buried. 

Thousands of people came to Nandom, the village where he resided. People did not come to mourn his death. Not at all! They came to celebrate his life! This man died old. In Ghana this is a privilege and there are no words that describe this festival. The family did a great job. 

As the tradition asks, the body was preserved and put 2 meters high on a kind of throne in his most beautiful traditional wear. The whole day and the whole night groups of traditional dancers came from all the villages to pay their tribute to this man by dancing in front of his body. The show was unbelievable. From far one would hear the deep roaring sound of drums coming closer. It was a group of dancers making their way to the "throne". When the drums of one group were softening, the next group could already be heard, approaching from far away. Those traditional groups were all people that were friends of Patrick Dery and for this special day made a performance. Usually they are probably farmers, today they were war dancers!   Also single people would dance in front of the body, scream out in joy and celebrate. So much joy and emotion as I have never ever experienced before. 

Another part of the tradition is that the family designs a funeral cloth that carries the face and age of the decedent. This way everybody will know who belongs to the family and who is friends and visitor. 

The next day the Bishop came for the official ceremony. The body has been put into the coffin and placed in the middle of the enormous field where people had been celebrating the last 24 hours. Around the coffin table and chairs were arranged for the priests and the Bishop. Everybody was seated properly underneath "tents" in a square surrounding the central scene with the Bishop. Some dancers were still around. Before the Bishop started the crowd was startled by a shocking traditional ceremony. One of the group of war dancers was making a last round and was holding an alive dog. They cut the throat and drank the blood. Even the people sitting next to me were shocked and doubted that deceased would have appreciated this gesture very much. 
Then the ceremony started and we rushed away to get home early and not get stuck in the dust from all the other cars making their way home. We stopped at the family house to say goodbye and I am deeply thankful that I was allowed to be part of this celebration.

Road to Nandom

Family wearing the funeral cloth, with the print of the decedent

Funeral Cloth

War dancers performing....special performance of people who have regular lives on other days =)

war dancers dancing as a last honor to the deceased

A woman dancing to the drums to pay her last respects to Sir Patrick Dery

another group of war dancers

Ghanaian xylophone - traditional church and funeral instrument! awesome sound

Travelling to Volta Region

More Travelling

It has been busy busy busy around here. No time to update this Blog. Sorry! But I have a lot of new stories to tell you. I don’t even know where to start.

First of all, I managed to defend my Master’s Thesis with my school in Berlin from Ghana. Thanks to Skype I can call myself Master of Arts! The same day I had the exam I went on the evening bus to Accra and started a great trip. 7 days I travelled Ghana with two friends and got to see some great areas of the country.

First, we spent some days at Coco Beach close to Accra. The beach was beautiful but as many beaches here, quite polluted. You jump into the water and easily have a plastic bag sticking to your body. On one of our visits to Accra we had the chance to watch part of the show of Reinhard Bonnke’s evangelist crusade (please google this guy!). Many many people gathered on Accra’s independence square to sing, dance and celebrate with this man. Religion again proved to be the central part of life of people in Ghana. It never stops to impress me how people believe and trust in God. It creates an amazing energy!

At Coco Beach we also had our first encounter with the local police, which was not our last. Randomly, a group of policemen jumped off the back of a pickup truck. All of them had big guns and two walked right towards us, quite aggressively. They accused us of having smoked weed on the beach and they were sure that they saw us throw away a joint. This happened when we actually only had entered the beach for 10 seconds and turned around because we wanted to offload some things at the hotel first. Suddenly, those men stand in front of us, grabbing and smelling our hands and treating us in the most unfriendly way. We decided to just start walking and surprisingly they did not follow us. 

Accra Independence Square (1957 Ghana achieved independence from England)

Coco Beach near Accra

Coco Beach near Accra

The next day we rented a car and started our trip to the Volta Region. Our next stop was Akosombo. We got there alright but if anyone ever decides to take the road through Tema, be aware of the roundabout! We seriously spent about 2 hours taking wrong exits, trying to get back to the roundabout, taking another wrong exit. This roundabout is huge and busy and does not have signboards that are understandable in any way. Two hours, seriously!!! In the evening we arrived at the wonderfully situated Lodge in Akosombo. The place was water front to Lake Volta, with a pool and just very well maintained. Unfortunately, there were also monkeys and other animals suffering in tiny cages.

Because the place has Indian management I especially enjoyed Indian food – a nice change of diet! 

View form Akosombo Continental

View from Akosombo Continental

Bored resident at Akosombo Continental 

The next day we went to see the Akosombo dam. You have to go to the tourist office and are only allowed to go with a guide. If you paid attention during physics classes in 7^th grade, don’t expect to learn much but the view up there is amazing. I think this was the most beautiful sight I have experienced in Ghana, so far. Afterwards, we decided to cruise the area for a bit and again I was impressed by Nature. Since the Upper West, where I live, is just dry and dusty I was so happy about all the rich and green nature. Also this part of the country is very well developed due to Lake Volta, being the biggest artificial lake of the world, and a great producer of electricity that is even exported to the neighboring countries. This produces jobs and infrastructure, which leads to wealth for this region. I highly enjoyed this stretch of the country, the small, clean and green villages with very friendly people. 

Akosombo Dam

View on top of Akosombo Dam

The next day we started another exciting part of the trip. It was exciting in many ways as we had incredible ups and downs. Everything started out so good and then became a living hell. We wanted to go deeper into the region and visit a waterfall and afterwards drive all the way down to the coast. So we made our way to Amedzofe. The road led us into the Eastern Highlands. As we were gaining height the view became more beautiful with every minute. Once we got to Amedzofe it was just amazing. I never expected to see a mountain like scenery mixed with tropical vegetation. Amedzofe lays at some 600 meters altitude. We went to see the waterfalls, which were only a 45 minutes easy hike. The waterfall was nice but unfortunately a heavy rain caught us by surprise and we had to hurry back.

Road to Amedzofe

Road to Amedzofe

Hike to Amedzofe

Amedzofe Falls

So our journey to the coast began. We stopped in Ho for supper, got a good stock of chocolates at the gas station and off we went in high spirits. There was only one thing that we didn’t consider. As soon as it gets dark the police barriers are up and every 10 minutes we got stopped by policemen. They are supposed to be looking for armed robbers and check on the trucks at night. However, we were easy meat. While the trucks were allowed to pass we were chopped into pieces. Every single barrier wanted something else. I had to show all of my papers, the car was checked in detail and every time another lie plopped up. Suddenly, the international driver’s license is not valid in Ghana. In Ghana you need a local one and what not. It was quite clear that the policemen were hoping to get some money from us because we wouldn't want to put up with the show. However, we were patient, played the game, talked and talked and did not pay a single bribe. The barriers took in total something like 2 hours. This was a horrible experience and for the first time I was deeply frustrated by a serious drawback of Ghana. I have heard many of the locals complain about how the policemen are after bribes. Now I got to experience it myself . The highlight of the trip though was a truck passing another truck on the opposing lane in the middle of the night, not paying attention to us and not slowing down when it saw us coming. We had to slam on the brakes and leave the road. Otherwise, the truck would have run us over. Thanks to the best driver in the world we survived safely. Close to a mental breakdown we got to Cape Coast early in the morning without having slept at all. The next two days we spent at Oasis Beach Resort, recovering from the stress – the place where I had also ended my last travels. Thanks to Alex & Christian this adventure has been made possible.